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The Romans were the first to put Coniston on the map, when they began mining copper from the surrounding fells. Excavations of the area show that the trade continued throughout the Middle Ages, before finally grinding to a halt in the 19th century. The lake was used to ferry goods and workers from one place to another, often to the green slate village of Coniston, the centre of the local mining trade. Throughout the 20th century, Coniston was the scene of several attempts at the world water speed record. Sir Malcom Campbell was the first challenger, setting the record of 141 mph in 1939. He was followed by his son, Donald Campbell, who, after setting four successive records, tragically died with his attempt in 1966.
Tours of Coniston lake operate almost exclusively on the Gondola. Built in 1859, it's the oldest steam yacht operational in the north of England, and, thanks to a full renovation by the National Trust, its interiors are just as luxurious today as they were on its first launch in the Victorian tourist heyday. The journey begins at Consiton Pier and takes a circuitous route anti-clockwise around the lake. Before docking it stops at Brantwood - the former home of the Victorian poet, painter and social critic, John Ruskin, who resided here from 1872 until his death in 1900. Ruskin had never actually seen the interior of Brantwood before buying it, but reasoned that any abode opposite Old Man Coniston, the highest fell in the Coniston fells group, "must be beautiful". The original seven rooms in which Ruskin lived and worked are open to visitors and are decorated with their archetypal artwork and furnishings. Adjoining the house are 16 acres of gardens, whose design was initiated by Ruskin and completed by his cousin Joan Severn. The writer's favourite was the Professor's Garden, which embodied his defining ethos of productivity in harmony with nature. Also intriguing is the Zig-Zaggy Garden - recreated from 130-year-old sketches by Ruskin and said to represent Dante's Purgatorial Mount.
By the 20th century, the views over Coniston were to inspire a second author, Arthur Ransome. Ransome used the lake as the template for the setting of the children's book Swallows and Amazons and some of its sequels. Those familiar with the stories, whose events are played out in fictional locations in the Lake District, will be able to notice their similarities with Coniston's three islands and other assorted landmarks. Even the Gondola itself was the inspiration for Captain Flint's houseboat!
By far the best views of Coniston are from the encircling fens. Scale the high ground above Brantwood to experience what Ruskin called "the best view in all of England"!
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